Shimoda
Japan has been severely struck recently but tourism is progressively bouncing back.
That’s a good time to discuss a tour I’ve made in Japan some time ago.
We didn’t have enough days to do the usual Tokyo-Kyoto, just a long weekend and we wanted to see some nature, the green and blue you forget when you live in Beijing. Close to Tokyo there is the Izu peninsula, quite popular with the Japanese on weekends. A bit the local Deauville or Hamptons.
You can rent a car from Tokyo (in Japan it’s easy) and it’s a good idea to wander freely in the Japanese countryside. We opted instead for the very convenient and efficient train. The direct line to Shimoda, the end of the Izu peninsula, is the Odoriko line and the best option is to take the Super View Odoriko with large windows to better enjoy the trip. The trip is around 3 1/2 hours and is really pleasant: after leaving the center of Tokyo, you quickly see its suburbs: you can feel the modernization started a long time ago, the buildings are of modest size, it reminded me a bit of the southern Parisian suburbs, from the 20s and 30s.
Shimoda has some historical significance: it was one of the port opened to the American trade after the Commodore Perry and its ‘black ships’ forced the opening of trade in Japan and it hosted the first American consulate in Japan. (It’s worth noticing there is a statue commemorating Perry’s arrival in Shimoda: it’s obviously an ambiguous commemoration, but it’s far from being entirely negative.)
Shimoda has some beaches, not ideal to swim, but very relaxing and surfers-friendly.
Beach in Shimoda
It’s a small sea-side town, a tad provincial, living on a quiet rhythm.
We stayed in a ryokan, Yamatokan, right on the beach, the very traditional type with kaseiki for dinner (traditional Japanese meal) and private spa on the balcony.
Then we moved inside the forests towards Kawasu, still by train. Nice walks in the lush forest, many waterfalls, like the famous Seven Waterfalls, and along the way you can spot wasabi fields.
Where is Bioman?
In the middle of this relatively unchanged Japan, there is an impressive loop bridge reminding you of the modernity of Japan. You almost expect Godzilla or Biomen landing there and wreaking havoc.
And again a very nice ryokan, the real deal: nobody speaks english, superb food, collective spa: the Unryu ryokan.
And ten more dishes to follow...
This was a small tour far away from most cliches on japan (although, I guess we escape cliches just to fell into new ones), a cosy nature, sweet climate, small buildings unobstructing the view, a subdued atmosphere, rather than the comics I mentioned earlier, it reminds you of some Japanese movies, Imamura’s Eels or Kitano’s Kikujiro.
Then rush back to jump into the bustling and classy Tokyo.
